For spring break this year, which was again over the Triduum and Easter week, we decided to go to central Spain to experience the Semana Santa processions that Spain is famous for. Also, we wanted to visit the sites and tombs of the Carmelite Saints Teresa of Avila and John of the Cross, as it happens we are both reading some of their works in our respective classes.
We flew our belovedly-cheap RyanAir from Bratislava to Madrid, picked up a rental car and set off. Since we had a car, I had a bit more ambitious itinerary planned than I do when we travel by train - one town per day. It was a bit hectic, especially with the boys not used to sitting in a car for travel, and it took us a few days to adjust, and for me to accept that we simply could not visit everything. On Holy Thursday, we arrived in Valladolid.
The main plaza was set up with bleachers for viewing the Holy Week processions.
On our way to the cathedral, we ran into a very small procession. 3 crosses were carried by penitents at the head of the line. Processions take place from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday in all the cities of Spain, and there are a few each day. They feature the parading of "paseos" floats of lifelike wooden sculptures of individual scenes of the events of the Passion, or images of the grieving Virgin Mary.
The processions are organized by hermandades and cofradÃas, religious brotherhoods. Members are
dressed in penitential robes with capirotes, (tall, pointed hoods with eye-holes).
The capirotes were designed so the faithful could repent in anonymity, without being recognised as self-confessed sinners; many go barefoot as well. Those carrying the statues atop their shoulders slowly sway back and forth to mournful, traditional tunes played by brass and bugle bands accompanied by drums.
The musicians were very good, and they were all different ages, and you could feel a great dedication to this cultural liturgical act in the way they played and processed.
It is quite powerful to see the paseos being carried in and out of the grand church doors.
Valladolid cathedral.
Michael began to show an affinity for kneelers on this trip.
Ruins of the former church - very Rome reminiscent here.
It was a special way to spend Holy Thursday, popping into various churches to see their paseo floats on display.
"As they were looking on, so too gaze on his wounds as he hangs. We see his blood as he dies. We see the price offered by the Redeemer, touch the scars of the Resurrection. He bows his head as if to kiss you. His heart is made bare open in love to you. His arms are extended that he may embrace you. His whole body is displayed for your redemption. Ponder how great these things are. Let this be rightly weighed in your mind: as he was once fixed to the cross in every part of his body for you, so he may now be fixed in every part of your soul."
These churches were still quite chilly, so Papa put his jacket on Michael. It appears that Michael felt like an altar boy because he processed out of the church and knelt.
We arrived at the National Sculpture Museum located in the Colegio de San Gregorio while it was still closed for siesta. So, we took pause to admire the facades.
Yes, nap time!
We had a sip of wine during nap time while we waited for the museum to open.
This wonderful museum was free during Holy Week, as it houses all religious art, and many pertaining to the passion of Christ. All the art dates from the Middle Ages to the 19th century and most of it came from former convents, monasteries and churches. We could also take pictures so are happy to share our favorites with you! Michael showed great interest in examining much of the art work, which thrilled me! He has been doing some water coloring at home, and so I think his appreciation of painting has grown some. :)
Such a beautiful Pieta from the 14th century - wood.
The great retable from San Benito el Real by Alonso Berruguete -16th century Spanish Mannerism.
Choir stalls from San Benito el Real - early Renaissance - and each stall had a carving of a scene from the life of Jesus - the detail!
16th century Annunciation, Gregorio Martinez - oil on panel.
This is a oil on canvas of Veronica's veil from 1658 by Francisco de Zurbaran - so lifelike!
Spanish Baroque 17th cen. Penitent Mary Magdalene on loan from the Prado Museum - Pedro de Mena.
St. Michael!
Remember you are dust and to dust you shall return.
Dominic always points out "Jeshus" lately, and so enjoyed looking at the statues.
Our dear St. Dominic!
The Holy Burial by Juan de Juni
17th century Baptism of Christ by Gregorio Fernandez - polychrome wood.
Lying Christ by Gregorio Fernandez, 1627.
"He was pierced for our transgressions, wounded for our iniquities."
By the same sculptor - the Sixth Anguish. Every year, the museum loans out 105 of its images to be used in the Holy Week processions in Valladolid.
Waiting for the evening procession.
This procession was longer, as more brotherhoods, bands and parishes participated.
Stations of the cross framed this float.
Good Friday in Burgos.
A procession had just ended, and Michael enjoyed watching a band parade by. Unfortunately, due to a late start and having to stop on the road, we missed the morning Good Friday activities.
Side Chapel of Stairs where the Blessed Sacrament had been reposed the night before. We stopped and prayed before the Blessed Sacrament as often as we could these 3 days, to contemplate the Mystery of the Incarnation that gives His life for us.
And we were on time to see the funny bellman strike the hour within the church entryway.
Very old style carousal that was on break for siesta hours - poor boys wanted to ride it very bad.
Let's go climb this gazebo instead.
Burgos has a number of unique statues tucked away in unexpected corners.
We walked around the town to the back of the cathedral and took a rest while watching the town's goings-on.
We then attended a reading of the Passion of our Lord in the cathedral before heading back to our hotel. What a blessed way to experience the Triduum through art, music, and prayer!
